NICOLE'S,

No matter how many Italian restaurants crowd Rhode Island like so many cannelloni on a plate, there always seems to be room for one more. One of the latest is Nicole's in Cranston, and it's another winner. Nicole's bills itself as a bistro and banquet restaurant -- the former signaling informality, the latter, efficient mass service. Among the appetizers are some interesting choices. One is a loaf of twisted garlic bread, to be dipped in a pool of Gorgonzola cream sauce. Calamari ($7.50) is listed as "grilled marinated squid" to avoid sounding prosaic, and it is served on a bed of warm mesclun salad. Facing the flames of the open-hearth oven in the open kitchen, we couldn't not try a wood-oven pizza. The one with eggplant ($8.95) proved a fine choice. The wood smoke also did impressive work enhancing my split half-roasted chicken ($8.95). All in all, you can eat well here for little. The highest priced items, sirloin umbriago and marinated duck, will run you $16.95.

Full review.